Last week I started grinding the blades for the framelock explorers.Each blade exactly the same bevel and look.This grinding jigg already worked well but needs some small adjustments to increase comfort during grinding.

A mix of natural colors like tan, coyote brown,chocolate brown.

Tiny neck knife built from S30V and kydex, convex grind bevel.Ready for the Gembloux knifeshow .

My grinding jigg is not finished yet but it already worked well today during the first grinding job for the explorer blades.This jigg helps me to adjust the angle of the blade tot the grinding belt.I built the jigg with common available steel and materials , the main parts are joined with 3 threathed brass shafts and 6 screws.One shaft acts like a pivot to tilt the big arm up or down.Fine adjustment happens by a set screw inside the arm.At front of the arm and on the contact plate I made several threated holes to fix all kind of blades or other small pieces ready to grind.A few extras has to be done yet like 2 stop screws at the bottom of the contact plate to enable a correct position of the blade .Once completely finished I will publish extra pics.

While waiting for the supplies to start my explorer mid tech production I made some new jiggs. One for grinding the blades,one for adjusting the linerlock and another new drilling fixture.My oldier jiggs built from wood and steel are ready to retire and jiggs 100% made from steel are more precise and will last longer.

Here a first pic from the linerlock jigg.

A new theme Inove for my blog to enable more features and another layout to enhance the reading comfort.The blog structure will be kept on the “news” page and probably all other pages will be modified by removing the sidebar.In this manner I can upgrade the tutorials with better pics .

A guestbook for all comments.

I recently added new pics of the definitive framelock explorer.Probably the definitive version of the framelock with snake-eye pivot bolt and black G10 spacer.The logo is always inside the handle near the spacer.In september I’ll finish a small version of the framelock explorer about 80% in size to the original explorer.

First prototype of the framelock explorer finished.See the gallery for some pics.The design is based on a minimum of parts.Only 2 screws are used for the assembly of the 4mm thick G10 and titanium.Both scales are oval shaped.At the inside a unique pivot system is used which enables a strong and adjustable assembly of the pivot.The blade is also 4mm thick S30V,it rotates on fosforbronze washers.Spacer built from titanium.

The framelock explorer almost finished.The design and size is exacly the same at the linerlock version , only this framelock is built with a minimum of parts.The knife has a new kind of pivot assembly, titanium lock and spacer, both scales are oval shaped.Sharpening the blade , fitting the lock and is al ready for sandblasting.The pivotscrew will be changed by a snake-eye version,small screw will be replaced by a black screw.

The explorer comes in a custom,handmade black paper box.

The explorer prototype has gone through various important tests in order to check stability and grip during hard use, sharpness and lockup of the linerlock.Once used as a survival tool ,this knife will experience lot’s of abuse, pressure and forces.Already the very first explorer is designed and built in answer to those needs.

Cutting into very dry wood is one test to get an idea about sharpness and stability.The lock could resist the forces from stabbing and chopping.The handle felt comfortable in any grip , several positions are possible .The knife really feels good.

Next knife will be a framelock explorer made from 10 parts.The minimum in materials but with maximum safety,comfort and reliability.

to be continued…

The pivot assembly of a folding knife really needs extra attention.The right size of washers,exact pivot hole and most of all something to avoid the rotation of the pivot screw.I have been using several ideas like a press fit or modified pivot head close to another knifepart.Some knifemakers uses a tiny screw in the pivot heads area to keep it fixed.Now I am trying to use D pivots to avoid the loosening of screw.First I grind the shaft of the pivot into a D-shape , it’s done with a fine sanding belts and simple jigg.The jigg is guided  by a steel bar and a few clamps to optain a perdendicular grind.The washer prevents the belt of damaging the inside pivots head.On the left you can see a small screw which enables a tight fit of the pivot against the jigg.The pivot has a clockwise thread so I set up the pivot on the right .Otherwise the downwards pulling belt should loosen the pivot easily.

The grind only takes two seconds.There is no need to grind the full shaft of the pivot because I also use G10 as parts of the knifehandle.Most important is the straight and stable set up to avoid damaging the pivot.

5 minutes works and several pivot are done.Now its time to deform the titanium pivot hole into a D shape.

A new folding knife is born ! This knife ,the explorer is my first collaboration with another knifemaker Antoine Van Loocke and comes in a limited production run.I am working on a extra page to explain the origin, purpose and proces of this tactical folding knife.

For many knives I have been using commercial available pivot screws.There good for most of the folding knives and it’s easy to find the matching step drill bits . Now I am making 2 prototype folders for a design contest and I decided to use custom pivot screw parts.A special knife needs some extra attention so I ordered large 1/2″ head  pivots . A big difference to the common 5/16″ head of the smaller pivots.These custom made pivots still have the same shaft dia 7/32″ but to drill the 1/2″ recesses into the G10 I need a uncommon step drill.Custom step drills are expensive and hard to find so I tried some alternative way to counterbore the material.Below a picture to compare the sizes.

Instead of using a common step drill I start with a wood drill bit of the size 1/2″.The sharp point enables boring at the exact location in the G10 and makes the right form to bore the center with a steel drill bit.The recess is not flat but the outer diameter is the exact size and thats most important .

Now I bore the center with a smaller drill bit .Here you can drill the right size to allow the pivot’s shaft but I used the matching size of another step drill.With a smaller step drill I flatten the bottom of the bored recess.Finally a larger drill bit is used to allow the pivot shaft.

Now I flatten the inside of the recess with a special file .Once clear the pivot head fits.Shortening the shaft or head of the pivot is done later when assembling the knife.

That’s it , with a few drill bits the job is done.Of course it only works in G10 , micarta , carbon fiber or wood .

A modification on my latest grizzly folding knife.The same blade but another handle.The G10 handle will also be “oval” shaped with my grinding jigg.Handle color tan or coyote brown.Other steel and titanium parts will be sandblasted.Probably no pocket clip.Instead of a classic lanyard hole I will try something new .