A year ago I tried several methods to etch a logo on a blade. I remember the one with the 9v battery, salt solution and cotton pads.
It’s surely the cheapest, easiest way to put a number, name or logo on steel.You can find this DIY on following website :
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41757
It worked well but I more interested in a method that enables me to repeat the same logo on different blades.Also the logo wasn’t sharp enough .Now I am trying the method with stencils and electrolyte liquids.On this page several ways will be presented until I have reached the desired result.
First of all I ordered typical etching product to start : etching fluid for stainless steel and titanium , neutralizer, developer liquid , stencils.After getting those”hard-to-find”materials I bought a UV light and laboratorium power supply, wires and crocodile clamps.I used those “etch-o-matic”-type stencils and found them to be easy to use but … writing on that material ? Not easy to get a sharp and even contoured logo or name on it . Especially a small logo like mine that features a 7 mm circle around my initials ? Forget about it, it could take a dozen stencils to get something similar but not good enough.I decided to start making my own stencils based on a print from my computer. I would give many options in design and propably the most accurate.I will not make a theory about etching so only a simple discription will be given below. More about the these techniques can be found on following websites :
First of all I made my logo on a computer and printed a black version it on a transparant sheet . The one on the picture below is about 7mm big.Smaller would have been difficult .This logo has been printed with a hp inkjet 1510 . It took about one week to get that the ink fully dried on the transparant sheet . And it”s still easily damaged by touching .In the future I will try a laserprinter another transparant material.
Now it’s time for the lightbox because we need to get this logo on a light sensitive stencil.
With a lightbox we make a negative and can etch it on steel.I assembled a wooden box, 2 sheets of glass ( about 3 mm thick ) , aluminium foil and the UV bulb with switch and wires.After a few hours my lightboc was finished.It’s quit big but some extra storage space is always welcome.First I made a small second box for the UV lightbulb and covered the inside with alu-foil.Secondly I drilled a hole about 5 cm dia in the center for passing the UV light through.On top of this small box there are 2 sheets of glass.Those are important to push the print and light-sensitive stencil together and stabilize them.The lightbulb is fixed inside the box .
The printed logo comes in the center of the hole under the light-sensitive stencil and between the two sheets of glass.
Now I going the set the light-sensitive stencil with UV-light during several minutes . It will be done in a dark room and only a small red light could be used otherwise you’ll destroy the light-sensitive material .How did I do this ?
- once the print-stencil and light-sensitive stencil is positioned , cover the glass with a black sheet
- lighten the stencils with UV light during 2-5 min
- after lightning wait for a minute or so
- develop the light-sensitive stencil during min 30 sec
- rinse both sides during one minute with handluke water
- rinse again with cold water on both sides until the slimy appearance is gone
- repeat the development and rinsing in water
- dry the stencil and keep it flat between 2 flat surfaces
Here a picture to show the difference between both stencils after lightning,the blue one is that build from light-sensitive material and has been used once .At right the one printed on the transparant sheet.
The stencil is ready for etching the steel . For this job I bought a commercial power supply, some wires ans crocodile clamps .
Only the contact-jigg is homebuilt,it’s a small piece of wood with a metal base which is covered with felt.
The red clamp goes to the blade while the black clamp is fixed to the jigg.How have I etched my logo ? After adding enough electrolyte I make contact with the wet felt on the stencil during 5 seconds.This provides a black and deep etch wich can be removed without grinding it away.Below a first try on hardened steel.The edge is a bit unsharp because the print on the transparant sheet wasn’t that sharp either.Here comes my goal to get it better.Remember this logo is about 7mm in dia.It works for big areas , for a blade s isn’t good enough.
Now I am using a better quality of transparant sheet.The black print of the logo is sharper and more stable.
Below a pic from a etch on titanium.While etching a brown shade easily occurs.
